As many people ask me how I make and paint my concrete, I made a post to explain it.
First of all the materials and the basic colors : I use wall putty and lately wood putty over cardboard or cork sheets to create some texture.
This is the texture I 'm talking about. Expect some warping due to moisture.
You can scratch the surface with a modelling knife before applying the putty to add variety and make some damage. If it gets too rough you can sand it to places.
There is no perfect color for cement and I use Tamiya acrylic XF-12 J.N. Grey that I believe is very close to the actual thing ( there is a green tint in it ).
Highly dilluted with alcohol or straight from the jar, this type of "painting" is the 1st step also for weathering. Here we prefer brush than airbrush so the coverage of the putty is different from spot to spot.
With white oil that rested on a cardboard for a day or more I make highlights with a rubbing motion ( poor brushes!! )....
...and then the same tactic with Naples Yellow Hue oil to give a light tint of yellow at spots. The oils become transparent as they dry so you can correct or add more.
We protect the surface with matt varnish so we can add Raw umber oil wash on spots all around and blend it accordingly. If it turns very dark you can correct it with white again. Each layer you add gives depth to the model. You can add a light wash of Naples yellow on spots that accumulate dust. Here I splashed some dots of raw umber oil and blended some of them that looked too dark.
How I treat the material:
We cut 1.5 mm cardboard in stripes to create the stairs.
After wood putty and sanding.
This cement was painted in that way. I used cork instead of cardboard and wood putty to make it smoother. A green filter was needed to match to color of the cement stairs, as the latter was made months ago.
First of all the materials and the basic colors : I use wall putty and lately wood putty over cardboard or cork sheets to create some texture.
This is the texture I 'm talking about. Expect some warping due to moisture.
You can scratch the surface with a modelling knife before applying the putty to add variety and make some damage. If it gets too rough you can sand it to places.
There is no perfect color for cement and I use Tamiya acrylic XF-12 J.N. Grey that I believe is very close to the actual thing ( there is a green tint in it ).
Highly dilluted with alcohol or straight from the jar, this type of "painting" is the 1st step also for weathering. Here we prefer brush than airbrush so the coverage of the putty is different from spot to spot.
With white oil that rested on a cardboard for a day or more I make highlights with a rubbing motion ( poor brushes!! )....
...and then the same tactic with Naples Yellow Hue oil to give a light tint of yellow at spots. The oils become transparent as they dry so you can correct or add more.
We protect the surface with matt varnish so we can add Raw umber oil wash on spots all around and blend it accordingly. If it turns very dark you can correct it with white again. Each layer you add gives depth to the model. You can add a light wash of Naples yellow on spots that accumulate dust. Here I splashed some dots of raw umber oil and blended some of them that looked too dark.
How I treat the material:
We cut 1.5 mm cardboard in stripes to create the stairs.
White glue.
Creating cracks and damage. Adding "cement" lines at the sides.
After wood putty and sanding.
This cement was painted in that way. I used cork instead of cardboard and wood putty to make it smoother. A green filter was needed to match to color of the cement stairs, as the latter was made months ago.
Your technique is awesome! Thanks for sharing it with us!
ReplyDeleteThanks a lot. Feel free to ask whatever you want.
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